Trip report - north and west Scotland
28th June 2018
Dates: 21st to 28th June 2018
Destination: north and west Scotland
Purpose of trip:
The purpose of my trip was my regular annual visit to the region to see bird and mammal species that are not found on a regular basis in Essex or East Anglia.
Primary target areas:
The primary target areas for wildlife watching and/or landscape photography were:
Perthshire: Glen Quaich, Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Speyside: Insh Marshes RSPB reserve, Loch Insh, Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve, Dulnain Bridge
Inverness area (east): Lochindorb
Inverness area (south): Findhorn valley, Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve
Wester Ross: Torridon area, Loch Maree area, Gairloch area, Gruinard Bay area, Inverpolly area, Coigach peninsula
Sutherland: Assynt coastal route (Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg), Scourie Bay, Tarbet, Loch Laxford, Loch Fleet
Ardnamurchan peninsula: various sites
Mull: various sites
Getting there and getting around:
I travelled up to Glasgow by Virgin Trains on 21st June 2018 and returned on 28th June 2018. I obtained an advance second class return ticket for £75 which was more than the advance first class return ticket for £70 for my 2017 trip which also included a single seat and lots more space plus free wi-fi, free meals and free coffee/tea, soft drinks, beer and wine.
However, my return journey actually only cost me £15 since I received £60 in refunds from Virgin trains under their delay repay scheme for delays on both the outward journey (1 hour 10 minutes late arriving due to a broken down train near Carlisle) and the return journey (37 minutes late arriving due to slow running speeds arising from the exceptionally hot weather).
These delays did not cause me any major inconvenience or any disruption to my planned itinerary other than a missed visit to Loch Leven RSPB reserve due to the late arrival in Glasgow on the first day (I drove directly to Perth and my overnight accommodation).
In Glasgow, I hired a car from mid-afternoon on 21st June 2018 to mid-afternoon on 28th June 2018 from Europcar for £109.12, reduced by TopCashback cashback to £100.96.
I used the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry service to get to and return from Mull: Kilchoan to Tobermory (£22.80 car and passenger return fare}.
During my trip, I had overnight stays at the following:
21st June 2018: Heidl Guest House in Perth booked via ebookers.com. This was my second stay at this exceptional bed and breakfast accommodation which cost only £34.29 per night including breakfast. Jackie was as welcoming as on my previous visit and I stayed in the same small but comfortable and spotlessly clean room. This accommodation is highly recommended and provided excellent value for money and a convenient stopover in readiness for birding at Perthshire sites from early the next morning. I had my evening meal at the nearby Mae-Ping Thai Restaurant.
22nd June 2018: Cairn Hotel in Carrbridge booked via ebookers.com. I had previously stayed at this hotel/pub in June 2016 and for this trip I booked again for 22nd June and 25th June 2018. In hindsight this was a mistake. The hotel is somewhat shabby and run down and again proved to be very noisy. In addition, I had to wait a long time to check in, I was not told where the shared bathroom was (fortunately I remembered from my previous visit) and I was not provided with a wi-fi access code. Even though it only cost £34.28 including breakfast, which is very cheap for Carrbridge and other Speyside locations, the experience of my first night was enough and I cancelled the second night and booked different accommodation (see below). Rather than eat at the over-crowded Cairn Hotel bar, I had my evening meal at the Boat Hotel in Boat of Garten. The food was good but not exceptional and quite expensive.
23rd June 2018: Kinlochewe Hotel in Kinlcochewe booked via ebookers.com. Although I have driven past this hotel on many occasions, I had never previously stayed there. At £59.63 per night including breakfast, it was relatively expensive. However, I received a very friendly welcome from Karen, the single room was very large and the restaurant served excellent food. In addition, the hotel is in the immediate vicinity of the beautiful Loch Maree and Beinn Eighe NNR and within 10 miles of Upper Loch Torridon via Glen Torridon (I visited the latter after my evening meal with an Otter being the highlight). I did have some issues with my stay, most notably the room was very hot since all the windows were sealed shut and there was considerable noise from the room above me for about an hour from 4:45 a.m. There was also no TV in the room apparently due to there being no terrestrial signal reception but for many years other hotels, bed and breakfasts and holiday rentals have provided digital TV. Having said that, it was not really a problem for me as I do not visit Scotland to watch TV!
24th June 2018: Park House bed and breakfast in Lochinver booked via booking.com. This was my third successive June stay at this small guest house managed by the very friendly Alison. Costing £30 per night including breakfast (unchanged from 2017), it provided budget accommodation in a good location for the Assynt coastal route between Lochinver and Kylesku and to the far north west Highlands. I again had an evening meal at the highly recommended Peet’s Restaurant in Lochinver. This restaurant is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
25th June 2018: Fairwinds Hotel in Carrbridge booked via ebookers.com. This was my hastily arranged accommodation following the cancellation of my second night at the Cairn Hotel. At £73.97 per night including breakfast, it was significantly more expensive but I had already received notification from Virgin Trains of a £45 refund on my outward train ticket so this justified the additional cost. The hotel provided exceptional accommodation which was very quiet being located away from the main road in a wooded location. I had my evening meal at Andersons Restaurant in Boat Of Garten. This restaurant is relatively expensive but, having now eaten there on 2 occasions, it is definitely one of my favourite restaurants in north and west Scotland. It is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
26th and 27th June 2018: Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale booked via booking.com. I was so pleased to find and stay at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse which is located at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Costing £76 for the 2 nights, it provided an ideal base for travelling around the peninsula and for visiting Mull via the Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry.
Although designated as a “hostel” by the Scottish Tourist Board, the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse offers 8 self-contained and en-suite rooms. My double room was relatively small and basic but nonetheless spotlessly clean and very comfortable. In addition, there is a huge communal kitchen, a large area with tables and chairs to eat at and a large lounge area with windows looking out on to the bird feeders and Pine Marten feeding area. Furthermore, the bay at the bottom of the access road was very convenient for watching birds (including Heron, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Willow Warbler, Lesser Redpoll, Siskin, Coal Tit and Great Spotted Woodpecker) and Red and Roe Deer and for a long and patient wait for an Otter. I received a very friendly welcome from Fay who showed me around the accommodation and its facilities and I also enjoyed the company of 3 university students undertaking their dissertations on the volcanic activity in the Ben Hiant area and Euan and his partner from Bridgend near Linlithgow who was hoping to see his first Pine Marten (he did and was very excited!).
Photo: Pine Marten at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
I did not use the facilities available for self-catering but instead had my evening meals at the Salen Hotel, where I have eaten previously when staying on the Ardnamurchan peninsula, and the Kilchoan Hotel, after returning to Kilchoan from Tobermory and my day trip to Mull.
This is a summary of my itinerary and route:
21st June 2018: Glasgow > Perth
22nd June 2018: Perth > Dunkeld > Glen Quaich > Dunkeld > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Dalwhinnie > Kingussie > Insh Marshes RSPB reserve > Loch Insh > Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve > Dulnain Bridge > Carrbridge > Boat of Garten > Loch Garten RSPB reserve > Carrbridge
23rd June 2018: Carrbridge > Lochindorb > Carrbridge > Findhorn valley > Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve > Inverness > Garve > Achnasheen > Glen Docherty > Kinlochewe > Glen Torridon > Upper Loch Torridon > Glen Torridon > Kinlochewe
24th June 2018: Kinlcohewe > Loch Maree > Shieldaig > Badachro > Port Henderson > Opinan > Port Henderson > Badachro > Shieldaig > Gairloch > Melvaig > Gairloch > Poolewe > Laide > Gruinard Bay > Dundonnell > Braemore Junction > Ullapool > Inchnadamph > Loch Assynt > Lochinver > Assynt coastal route (to Point of Stoer only) > Lochinver > Inverkirkaig > Achiltibuie > Polbain > Reiff > Achnahaird > Inverkirkaig > Lochinver
25th June 2018: Lochinver > Assynt coastal road (including Point of Stoer) > Kylesku > Scourie > Tarbet (overlooking Handa Island) > Loch Laxford > Laxford Bridge > Lairg > Loch Fleet > Inverness > Carrbridge > Boat of Garten > Loch Garten RSPB reserve > Carrbridge
26th June 2018: Carrbridge > Aviemore > Kingussie > Newtonmore > Laggan > Spean Bridge > Gairlochy> Kinlocheil > Glenfinnan > Lochailort > Glenuig > Kinlochmoidart > Acharacle > Salen > Glenborrodale > Ben Hiant viewpoint > Kilchoan > Ardnamurchan Point > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
27th June 2018: Glenborrodale > Kilchoan > Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry > Tobermory > Dervaig > Calgary > Gruline > Loch na Keal > Loch Scridain > Glen More > Craignure > Tobermory > Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry > Kilchoan > Sanna > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale
28th June 2018: Glenborrodale > Salen > Garbh Eilean wildlife hide > Strontian > Sallachan > Corran ferry > Glencoe > Rannoch Moor > Tyndrum > Crianlarich > Loch Lomond > Glasgow
Weather:
The weather was exceptionally good and the best that I have experienced in north and west Scotland for many years. Other than some drizzle and light rain when I arrived at Kinlochewe on the afternoon of 23rd June 2018, the rest of my trip saw some cloudy periods but predominantly hazy or bright sunshine. Temperatures ranged from day maxima of 16°C to 29°C and it became hotter as the week progressed. When I left Glasgow the temperature was 32°C and this forced Virgin Trains to operate my return train to London Euston at a reduced speed on some sections of the journey.
Highlights:
During my trip, I was able to record 111 bird species and 12 mammal species.
Trip list - north and west Scotland
With regard to the birds, I was able to add 15 species to my 2018 list bringing the year to date total to 207 species.
Mammals included the following:
Pine Marten: 2 separate visits from an individual at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
Otter: 1 on Upper Loch Torridon near Torridon village and 1 on Loch Sunart at Glenborrodale
Red Squirrel: 1 between Dunkeld and Amulree and 1 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Stoat: 2 together in Glen Quaich
Hedgehog: a daylight sighting of an active individual near Diabaig, Mull
In addition, there were a number of Mountain Hare road casualties on the approach to the Lochindorb area east of Inverness.
I also managed to record Red Deer, Fallow Deer, Roe Deer, Common Seal, Brown Hare and Rabbit.
Very unusually, during my visits to the Point of Stoer and Ardnamurchan Point, the sea was very calm and flat, ideal conditions for spotting cetaceans. Unfortunately, I drew a complete blank but both sites were very good for a variety of seabirds.
The following summarises the notable wildlife species seen on my trip:
Dunkeld to Amulree: Red Squirrel
Glen Quaich: Red Grouse, Short-eared Owl, Red Kite, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Greylag Goose, Curlew, Lapwing, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Swallow, Swift, House Martin, Whinchat, Reed Bunting, Goldcrest (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Stoat, Rabbit
Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve: Osprey, Great Crested Grebe, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Mallard, Willow Warbler, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit, Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting, Red Squirrel, Fallow Deer
Insh Marshes RSPB reserve: Curlew (heard only), Heron, Lapwing, Willow Warbler (heard only), Coal Tit, Roe Deer
Loch Insh: Osprey, Goldeneye, Common Buzzard
Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve: Crested Tit, Spotted Flycatcher, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest, Goldeneye, Common Sandpiper
Boat of Garten: Heron, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Moorhen, Swift
Carrbridge: Swift, Curlew
Dulnain Bridge: Grey Wagtail, Common Sandpiper, Heron, Mallard
Lochindorb: Red Grouse, Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Greylag Goose, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Swallow, Meadow Pipit
Findhorn valley: Golden Eagle, Common Buzzard, Dipper, Common Sandpiper, Curlew (heard only), Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Tern, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Meadow Pipit, Red Deer, Brown Hare, Rabbit
Farr road moors: Red Kite, Willow Warbler (heard only)
Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve: Slavonian Grebe, Little Grebe, Willow Warbler, Sand Martin, House Martin, Swift, Meadow Pipit
A835 River Conon: Osprey
Kinlochewe: Great Spotted Woodpecker, Siskin
Glen Torridon: Stonechat, Meadow Pipit
Upper Loch Torridon: Greenshank, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Common Sandpiper, Heron, Red-breasted Merganser, Mallard, Otter, Red Deer
Loch Maree: Common Sandpiper, Red-breasted Merganser
Shieldaig/Badachro/Port Henderson/Opinan area: Great Skua, Cormorant, Heron, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Red-breasted Merganser, Swallow, Twite, Stonechat, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Common Seal
Gairloch to Melvaig: Rock Dove, Wheatear, Sand Martin, Skylark
Loch Ewe at Poolewe: Red-breasted Merganser, Hooded Crow
Loch Gruinart at Laide: Cormorant, Shag, Ringed Plover, Oystercatcher, Shelduck
Little Loch Broom at Dundonnell: Oystercatcher
Dundonnell: Common Buzzard
Elphin: Raven
Loch Assynt area: Red Deer
Loch Kirkaig, Inverpolly area and Coigach peninsula from Lochinver: Short-eared Owl, Common Buzzard, Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Black Guillemot, Shag, Greylag Goose, Heron, Curlew, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Hooded Crow, Rock Dove, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Stonechat, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Assynt coastal route – Lochinver to Stoer: Rock Dove, Oystercatcher, Wheatear
Assynt coastal route – Stoer peninsula and Stoer lighthouse: Great Skua, Gannet, Guillemot, Razorbill, Kittiwake, Fulmar, Shag, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Rock Dove, Wheatear, Twite, Rock Pipit, Skylark
Assynt coastal route – Clashnessie: Red-throated Diver, Shag, Guillemot
Kylesku: Arctic Tern, Shag, Oystercatcher, Lesser Redpoll, House Martin, Common Seal
Scourie: Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover
Tarbet: Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Arctic Skua, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Guillemot, Puffin, Fulmar, Shag, Eider, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Raven, Hooded Crow
Loch Laxford: Black-throated Diver, Greenshank, Golden Plover, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, Red-breasted Merganser, Mallard, Shag, Common Seal
Laxford Bridge to Lairg: Common Buzzard, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Loch Fleet: Osprey, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Shelduck, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Heron, Hooded Crow, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Lochailort to Acharacle: Common Scoter, Long-tailed Duck, Goosander, Shag, Heron, Oystercatcher, Common Buzzard, Chiffchaff (heard only), Stonechat, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Acharacle to Kilchoan: Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Yellowhammer (heard only), Meadow Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Kilchoan to Ardnamurchan Point: Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler (heard only), Skylark
Ardnamurchan – Ardnamurchan Point: Manx Shearwater, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Common Sandpiper, Oysterctacher
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale area: Heron, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll, Siskin, Coal Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Pine Marten, Otter, Red Deer, Roe Deer
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale to Salen: Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale to Kilchoan: Red-breasted Merganser, Heron, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Swallow, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Siskin, Linnet, Yellowhammer, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Raven, Hooded Crow, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Sanna: Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Skylark, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Garbh Eilean wildlife hide: Heron, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Goosander, Common Tern, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Sallachan: Eider, Common Tern, Common Seal, Hooded Crow
Ardgour: Black Guillemot
Mull: White-tailed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Hooded Crow, Shag, Heron, Common Sandpiper, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Common Redshank, Shelduck, Mallard, Greylag Goose, Mute Swan, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Common Whitethroat (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Cuckoo, Goldcrest (heard only), Yellowhammer (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Common Seal, Red Deer
Final thoughts …. future trips?
During my last 2 June trips prior to this one, it was evident that the roads to the north and west of Inverness were becoming increasingly busy. I initially put this down to the sharp fall in the value of the pound against the euro arising from the UK referendum on EU membership and a consequent increase in the number of tourists from Europe.
When I first visited northern Scotland in June 1988, the roads were generally very quiet and it was possible to drive for long periods without seeing another vehicle. However, my driving experience during this trip was the worst that I have had in northern Scotland. The volume of traffic, including cars, cars with caravans, motorhomes and motorbikes (often in convoys), was much greater than I have ever encountered.
Just 2 examples demonstrate the point ….
After leaving the Kinlochewe Hotel on 24th June 2018 immediately after breakfast, I visited nearby Loch Maree at Slattadale. This is a beautiful location with outstanding views across the loch towards the 3218 feet high mountain of Slioch. Loch Maree is also an important breeding site for 2 exceptionally rare birds: Black-throated Diver and White-tailed Eagle. The lochside Forestry Commission car park is normally very quiet with, at most, only around 5 cars parked up. On this occasion when I arrived, there were 10 or more motorhomes parked up having presumably stayed there overnight, several people making a lot of noise, barking dogs and kayaks on the loch.
The Assynt coastal route from Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg has long been one of my favourite drives in Scotland. It offers a wide variety of stunning scenery including the 2651 feet high mountain of Quinag and the island-studded Eddrachillis Bay. The majority of the route is a single track road with passing places and there are several very steep stretches and hairpin bends. It is most definitely not a road for inexperienced drivers lacking confidence or for large motorhomes or cars towing caravans. However, apart from the unprecedented volume of traffic along this road, this is exactly what I saw.
Given just these examples, I made the decision not to travel up to the far north west tip of the Scottish mainland and the stunningly beautiful Kyle of Durness and Balnakeil Bay on this trip. From memory, this is the first time ever that I have failed to incorporate this area in to my trip.
So what is going on?
Speaking to a number of local residents in several locations, the response was almost always the same …. it’s the North Coast 500.
The North Coast 500 is a 516 long mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland, starting and ending at Inverness Castle. The route is also known as the NC500 and was launched in March 2015 by the Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative (NHI) in an attempt to work with all aspects of the tourism sector to bring unified benefits to businesses across the route. It was identified that a gap existed in the market within the Northern Highlands for a tourism offering that included each county of the area (Caithness, Sutherland and Ross-shire) and that the NC 500 would address that.
That is all very laudable especially if it supports the economic well-being and continuity of fringe rural communities but surely any initiative like this has to be sustainable in terms of the infrastructure available in and around those communities such as the capacity and condition of the roads and the availability of overnight accommodation, cafes/restaurants, toilets and other facilities?
In my view, the number of people “doing the NC500” far outweighs the capacity of the current infrastructure to cope with this influx of people and vehicles. It has become a victim of its own success.
This is a view shared by the local residents that I spoke to and it is also borne out by some of the coverage in the Scottish press (for example this) which has reported on traffic congestion, inconsiderate driving, illegal parking, speeding, accidents, littering, erosion, damage to fragile landscapes, etc.
Whilst I do not have any right to claim exclusive use of the roads in northern Scotland, my enthusiasm for travelling around the area and appreciating the landscapes, wildlife, solitude and peace has taken a severe knock.
The NC500 genie is out of the bottle now. It can not be dis-invented. I need to decide whether I visit the area again in June and, if I do, whether I adopt a different approach such as renting a campervan, sleeping during the day and travelling and wildlife watching in the first hours after dawn and the last hours before dark when the hordes of NC500 fans are asleep. This is a perfectly feasible given the long daylight hours in northern Scotland in June but I suspect that campervan rental rates, like hotel and bed breakfast rates, have increased significantly to take advantage of the NC500.
Photo: Gruinard Bay, Highland
Destination: north and west Scotland
Purpose of trip:
The purpose of my trip was my regular annual visit to the region to see bird and mammal species that are not found on a regular basis in Essex or East Anglia.
Primary target areas:
The primary target areas for wildlife watching and/or landscape photography were:
Perthshire: Glen Quaich, Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Speyside: Insh Marshes RSPB reserve, Loch Insh, Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve, Dulnain Bridge
Inverness area (east): Lochindorb
Inverness area (south): Findhorn valley, Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve
Wester Ross: Torridon area, Loch Maree area, Gairloch area, Gruinard Bay area, Inverpolly area, Coigach peninsula
Sutherland: Assynt coastal route (Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg), Scourie Bay, Tarbet, Loch Laxford, Loch Fleet
Ardnamurchan peninsula: various sites
Mull: various sites
Getting there and getting around:
I travelled up to Glasgow by Virgin Trains on 21st June 2018 and returned on 28th June 2018. I obtained an advance second class return ticket for £75 which was more than the advance first class return ticket for £70 for my 2017 trip which also included a single seat and lots more space plus free wi-fi, free meals and free coffee/tea, soft drinks, beer and wine.
However, my return journey actually only cost me £15 since I received £60 in refunds from Virgin trains under their delay repay scheme for delays on both the outward journey (1 hour 10 minutes late arriving due to a broken down train near Carlisle) and the return journey (37 minutes late arriving due to slow running speeds arising from the exceptionally hot weather).
These delays did not cause me any major inconvenience or any disruption to my planned itinerary other than a missed visit to Loch Leven RSPB reserve due to the late arrival in Glasgow on the first day (I drove directly to Perth and my overnight accommodation).
In Glasgow, I hired a car from mid-afternoon on 21st June 2018 to mid-afternoon on 28th June 2018 from Europcar for £109.12, reduced by TopCashback cashback to £100.96.
I used the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry service to get to and return from Mull: Kilchoan to Tobermory (£22.80 car and passenger return fare}.
During my trip, I had overnight stays at the following:
21st June 2018: Heidl Guest House in Perth booked via ebookers.com. This was my second stay at this exceptional bed and breakfast accommodation which cost only £34.29 per night including breakfast. Jackie was as welcoming as on my previous visit and I stayed in the same small but comfortable and spotlessly clean room. This accommodation is highly recommended and provided excellent value for money and a convenient stopover in readiness for birding at Perthshire sites from early the next morning. I had my evening meal at the nearby Mae-Ping Thai Restaurant.
22nd June 2018: Cairn Hotel in Carrbridge booked via ebookers.com. I had previously stayed at this hotel/pub in June 2016 and for this trip I booked again for 22nd June and 25th June 2018. In hindsight this was a mistake. The hotel is somewhat shabby and run down and again proved to be very noisy. In addition, I had to wait a long time to check in, I was not told where the shared bathroom was (fortunately I remembered from my previous visit) and I was not provided with a wi-fi access code. Even though it only cost £34.28 including breakfast, which is very cheap for Carrbridge and other Speyside locations, the experience of my first night was enough and I cancelled the second night and booked different accommodation (see below). Rather than eat at the over-crowded Cairn Hotel bar, I had my evening meal at the Boat Hotel in Boat of Garten. The food was good but not exceptional and quite expensive.
23rd June 2018: Kinlochewe Hotel in Kinlcochewe booked via ebookers.com. Although I have driven past this hotel on many occasions, I had never previously stayed there. At £59.63 per night including breakfast, it was relatively expensive. However, I received a very friendly welcome from Karen, the single room was very large and the restaurant served excellent food. In addition, the hotel is in the immediate vicinity of the beautiful Loch Maree and Beinn Eighe NNR and within 10 miles of Upper Loch Torridon via Glen Torridon (I visited the latter after my evening meal with an Otter being the highlight). I did have some issues with my stay, most notably the room was very hot since all the windows were sealed shut and there was considerable noise from the room above me for about an hour from 4:45 a.m. There was also no TV in the room apparently due to there being no terrestrial signal reception but for many years other hotels, bed and breakfasts and holiday rentals have provided digital TV. Having said that, it was not really a problem for me as I do not visit Scotland to watch TV!
24th June 2018: Park House bed and breakfast in Lochinver booked via booking.com. This was my third successive June stay at this small guest house managed by the very friendly Alison. Costing £30 per night including breakfast (unchanged from 2017), it provided budget accommodation in a good location for the Assynt coastal route between Lochinver and Kylesku and to the far north west Highlands. I again had an evening meal at the highly recommended Peet’s Restaurant in Lochinver. This restaurant is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
25th June 2018: Fairwinds Hotel in Carrbridge booked via ebookers.com. This was my hastily arranged accommodation following the cancellation of my second night at the Cairn Hotel. At £73.97 per night including breakfast, it was significantly more expensive but I had already received notification from Virgin Trains of a £45 refund on my outward train ticket so this justified the additional cost. The hotel provided exceptional accommodation which was very quiet being located away from the main road in a wooded location. I had my evening meal at Andersons Restaurant in Boat Of Garten. This restaurant is relatively expensive but, having now eaten there on 2 occasions, it is definitely one of my favourite restaurants in north and west Scotland. It is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
26th and 27th June 2018: Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale booked via booking.com. I was so pleased to find and stay at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse which is located at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Costing £76 for the 2 nights, it provided an ideal base for travelling around the peninsula and for visiting Mull via the Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry.
Although designated as a “hostel” by the Scottish Tourist Board, the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse offers 8 self-contained and en-suite rooms. My double room was relatively small and basic but nonetheless spotlessly clean and very comfortable. In addition, there is a huge communal kitchen, a large area with tables and chairs to eat at and a large lounge area with windows looking out on to the bird feeders and Pine Marten feeding area. Furthermore, the bay at the bottom of the access road was very convenient for watching birds (including Heron, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Willow Warbler, Lesser Redpoll, Siskin, Coal Tit and Great Spotted Woodpecker) and Red and Roe Deer and for a long and patient wait for an Otter. I received a very friendly welcome from Fay who showed me around the accommodation and its facilities and I also enjoyed the company of 3 university students undertaking their dissertations on the volcanic activity in the Ben Hiant area and Euan and his partner from Bridgend near Linlithgow who was hoping to see his first Pine Marten (he did and was very excited!).
Photo: Pine Marten at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
I did not use the facilities available for self-catering but instead had my evening meals at the Salen Hotel, where I have eaten previously when staying on the Ardnamurchan peninsula, and the Kilchoan Hotel, after returning to Kilchoan from Tobermory and my day trip to Mull.
This is a summary of my itinerary and route:
21st June 2018: Glasgow > Perth
22nd June 2018: Perth > Dunkeld > Glen Quaich > Dunkeld > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Dalwhinnie > Kingussie > Insh Marshes RSPB reserve > Loch Insh > Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve > Dulnain Bridge > Carrbridge > Boat of Garten > Loch Garten RSPB reserve > Carrbridge
23rd June 2018: Carrbridge > Lochindorb > Carrbridge > Findhorn valley > Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve > Inverness > Garve > Achnasheen > Glen Docherty > Kinlochewe > Glen Torridon > Upper Loch Torridon > Glen Torridon > Kinlochewe
24th June 2018: Kinlcohewe > Loch Maree > Shieldaig > Badachro > Port Henderson > Opinan > Port Henderson > Badachro > Shieldaig > Gairloch > Melvaig > Gairloch > Poolewe > Laide > Gruinard Bay > Dundonnell > Braemore Junction > Ullapool > Inchnadamph > Loch Assynt > Lochinver > Assynt coastal route (to Point of Stoer only) > Lochinver > Inverkirkaig > Achiltibuie > Polbain > Reiff > Achnahaird > Inverkirkaig > Lochinver
25th June 2018: Lochinver > Assynt coastal road (including Point of Stoer) > Kylesku > Scourie > Tarbet (overlooking Handa Island) > Loch Laxford > Laxford Bridge > Lairg > Loch Fleet > Inverness > Carrbridge > Boat of Garten > Loch Garten RSPB reserve > Carrbridge
26th June 2018: Carrbridge > Aviemore > Kingussie > Newtonmore > Laggan > Spean Bridge > Gairlochy> Kinlocheil > Glenfinnan > Lochailort > Glenuig > Kinlochmoidart > Acharacle > Salen > Glenborrodale > Ben Hiant viewpoint > Kilchoan > Ardnamurchan Point > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
27th June 2018: Glenborrodale > Kilchoan > Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry > Tobermory > Dervaig > Calgary > Gruline > Loch na Keal > Loch Scridain > Glen More > Craignure > Tobermory > Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry > Kilchoan > Sanna > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale
28th June 2018: Glenborrodale > Salen > Garbh Eilean wildlife hide > Strontian > Sallachan > Corran ferry > Glencoe > Rannoch Moor > Tyndrum > Crianlarich > Loch Lomond > Glasgow
Weather:
The weather was exceptionally good and the best that I have experienced in north and west Scotland for many years. Other than some drizzle and light rain when I arrived at Kinlochewe on the afternoon of 23rd June 2018, the rest of my trip saw some cloudy periods but predominantly hazy or bright sunshine. Temperatures ranged from day maxima of 16°C to 29°C and it became hotter as the week progressed. When I left Glasgow the temperature was 32°C and this forced Virgin Trains to operate my return train to London Euston at a reduced speed on some sections of the journey.
Highlights:
During my trip, I was able to record 111 bird species and 12 mammal species.
Trip list - north and west Scotland
With regard to the birds, I was able to add 15 species to my 2018 list bringing the year to date total to 207 species.
Mammals included the following:
Pine Marten: 2 separate visits from an individual at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
Otter: 1 on Upper Loch Torridon near Torridon village and 1 on Loch Sunart at Glenborrodale
Red Squirrel: 1 between Dunkeld and Amulree and 1 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Stoat: 2 together in Glen Quaich
Hedgehog: a daylight sighting of an active individual near Diabaig, Mull
In addition, there were a number of Mountain Hare road casualties on the approach to the Lochindorb area east of Inverness.
I also managed to record Red Deer, Fallow Deer, Roe Deer, Common Seal, Brown Hare and Rabbit.
Very unusually, during my visits to the Point of Stoer and Ardnamurchan Point, the sea was very calm and flat, ideal conditions for spotting cetaceans. Unfortunately, I drew a complete blank but both sites were very good for a variety of seabirds.
The following summarises the notable wildlife species seen on my trip:
Dunkeld to Amulree: Red Squirrel
Glen Quaich: Red Grouse, Short-eared Owl, Red Kite, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Greylag Goose, Curlew, Lapwing, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Swallow, Swift, House Martin, Whinchat, Reed Bunting, Goldcrest (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Stoat, Rabbit
Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve: Osprey, Great Crested Grebe, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Mallard, Willow Warbler, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit, Yellowhammer, Reed Bunting, Red Squirrel, Fallow Deer
Insh Marshes RSPB reserve: Curlew (heard only), Heron, Lapwing, Willow Warbler (heard only), Coal Tit, Roe Deer
Loch Insh: Osprey, Goldeneye, Common Buzzard
Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve: Crested Tit, Spotted Flycatcher, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest, Goldeneye, Common Sandpiper
Boat of Garten: Heron, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Moorhen, Swift
Carrbridge: Swift, Curlew
Dulnain Bridge: Grey Wagtail, Common Sandpiper, Heron, Mallard
Lochindorb: Red Grouse, Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Greylag Goose, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Swallow, Meadow Pipit
Findhorn valley: Golden Eagle, Common Buzzard, Dipper, Common Sandpiper, Curlew (heard only), Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Tern, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Meadow Pipit, Red Deer, Brown Hare, Rabbit
Farr road moors: Red Kite, Willow Warbler (heard only)
Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve: Slavonian Grebe, Little Grebe, Willow Warbler, Sand Martin, House Martin, Swift, Meadow Pipit
A835 River Conon: Osprey
Kinlochewe: Great Spotted Woodpecker, Siskin
Glen Torridon: Stonechat, Meadow Pipit
Upper Loch Torridon: Greenshank, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Common Sandpiper, Heron, Red-breasted Merganser, Mallard, Otter, Red Deer
Loch Maree: Common Sandpiper, Red-breasted Merganser
Shieldaig/Badachro/Port Henderson/Opinan area: Great Skua, Cormorant, Heron, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Red-breasted Merganser, Swallow, Twite, Stonechat, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Common Seal
Gairloch to Melvaig: Rock Dove, Wheatear, Sand Martin, Skylark
Loch Ewe at Poolewe: Red-breasted Merganser, Hooded Crow
Loch Gruinart at Laide: Cormorant, Shag, Ringed Plover, Oystercatcher, Shelduck
Little Loch Broom at Dundonnell: Oystercatcher
Dundonnell: Common Buzzard
Elphin: Raven
Loch Assynt area: Red Deer
Loch Kirkaig, Inverpolly area and Coigach peninsula from Lochinver: Short-eared Owl, Common Buzzard, Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Black Guillemot, Shag, Greylag Goose, Heron, Curlew, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Hooded Crow, Rock Dove, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Stonechat, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Assynt coastal route – Lochinver to Stoer: Rock Dove, Oystercatcher, Wheatear
Assynt coastal route – Stoer peninsula and Stoer lighthouse: Great Skua, Gannet, Guillemot, Razorbill, Kittiwake, Fulmar, Shag, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Rock Dove, Wheatear, Twite, Rock Pipit, Skylark
Assynt coastal route – Clashnessie: Red-throated Diver, Shag, Guillemot
Kylesku: Arctic Tern, Shag, Oystercatcher, Lesser Redpoll, House Martin, Common Seal
Scourie: Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover
Tarbet: Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Arctic Skua, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Guillemot, Puffin, Fulmar, Shag, Eider, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Raven, Hooded Crow
Loch Laxford: Black-throated Diver, Greenshank, Golden Plover, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, Red-breasted Merganser, Mallard, Shag, Common Seal
Laxford Bridge to Lairg: Common Buzzard, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Loch Fleet: Osprey, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Shelduck, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Heron, Hooded Crow, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Lochailort to Acharacle: Common Scoter, Long-tailed Duck, Goosander, Shag, Heron, Oystercatcher, Common Buzzard, Chiffchaff (heard only), Stonechat, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Acharacle to Kilchoan: Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Yellowhammer (heard only), Meadow Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Kilchoan to Ardnamurchan Point: Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler (heard only), Skylark
Ardnamurchan – Ardnamurchan Point: Manx Shearwater, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Common Sandpiper, Oysterctacher
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale area: Heron, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll, Siskin, Coal Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Pine Marten, Otter, Red Deer, Roe Deer
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale to Salen: Common Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Glenborrodale to Kilchoan: Red-breasted Merganser, Heron, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Swallow, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Siskin, Linnet, Yellowhammer, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Raven, Hooded Crow, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Sanna: Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Skylark, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Garbh Eilean wildlife hide: Heron, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Goosander, Common Tern, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Sallachan: Eider, Common Tern, Common Seal, Hooded Crow
Ardgour: Black Guillemot
Mull: White-tailed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Hooded Crow, Shag, Heron, Common Sandpiper, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Common Redshank, Shelduck, Mallard, Greylag Goose, Mute Swan, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Common Whitethroat (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Cuckoo, Goldcrest (heard only), Yellowhammer (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Common Seal, Red Deer
Final thoughts …. future trips?
During my last 2 June trips prior to this one, it was evident that the roads to the north and west of Inverness were becoming increasingly busy. I initially put this down to the sharp fall in the value of the pound against the euro arising from the UK referendum on EU membership and a consequent increase in the number of tourists from Europe.
When I first visited northern Scotland in June 1988, the roads were generally very quiet and it was possible to drive for long periods without seeing another vehicle. However, my driving experience during this trip was the worst that I have had in northern Scotland. The volume of traffic, including cars, cars with caravans, motorhomes and motorbikes (often in convoys), was much greater than I have ever encountered.
Just 2 examples demonstrate the point ….
After leaving the Kinlochewe Hotel on 24th June 2018 immediately after breakfast, I visited nearby Loch Maree at Slattadale. This is a beautiful location with outstanding views across the loch towards the 3218 feet high mountain of Slioch. Loch Maree is also an important breeding site for 2 exceptionally rare birds: Black-throated Diver and White-tailed Eagle. The lochside Forestry Commission car park is normally very quiet with, at most, only around 5 cars parked up. On this occasion when I arrived, there were 10 or more motorhomes parked up having presumably stayed there overnight, several people making a lot of noise, barking dogs and kayaks on the loch.
The Assynt coastal route from Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg has long been one of my favourite drives in Scotland. It offers a wide variety of stunning scenery including the 2651 feet high mountain of Quinag and the island-studded Eddrachillis Bay. The majority of the route is a single track road with passing places and there are several very steep stretches and hairpin bends. It is most definitely not a road for inexperienced drivers lacking confidence or for large motorhomes or cars towing caravans. However, apart from the unprecedented volume of traffic along this road, this is exactly what I saw.
Given just these examples, I made the decision not to travel up to the far north west tip of the Scottish mainland and the stunningly beautiful Kyle of Durness and Balnakeil Bay on this trip. From memory, this is the first time ever that I have failed to incorporate this area in to my trip.
So what is going on?
Speaking to a number of local residents in several locations, the response was almost always the same …. it’s the North Coast 500.
The North Coast 500 is a 516 long mile scenic route around the north coast of Scotland, starting and ending at Inverness Castle. The route is also known as the NC500 and was launched in March 2015 by the Tourism Project Board of the North Highland Initiative (NHI) in an attempt to work with all aspects of the tourism sector to bring unified benefits to businesses across the route. It was identified that a gap existed in the market within the Northern Highlands for a tourism offering that included each county of the area (Caithness, Sutherland and Ross-shire) and that the NC 500 would address that.
That is all very laudable especially if it supports the economic well-being and continuity of fringe rural communities but surely any initiative like this has to be sustainable in terms of the infrastructure available in and around those communities such as the capacity and condition of the roads and the availability of overnight accommodation, cafes/restaurants, toilets and other facilities?
In my view, the number of people “doing the NC500” far outweighs the capacity of the current infrastructure to cope with this influx of people and vehicles. It has become a victim of its own success.
This is a view shared by the local residents that I spoke to and it is also borne out by some of the coverage in the Scottish press (for example this) which has reported on traffic congestion, inconsiderate driving, illegal parking, speeding, accidents, littering, erosion, damage to fragile landscapes, etc.
Whilst I do not have any right to claim exclusive use of the roads in northern Scotland, my enthusiasm for travelling around the area and appreciating the landscapes, wildlife, solitude and peace has taken a severe knock.
The NC500 genie is out of the bottle now. It can not be dis-invented. I need to decide whether I visit the area again in June and, if I do, whether I adopt a different approach such as renting a campervan, sleeping during the day and travelling and wildlife watching in the first hours after dawn and the last hours before dark when the hordes of NC500 fans are asleep. This is a perfectly feasible given the long daylight hours in northern Scotland in June but I suspect that campervan rental rates, like hotel and bed breakfast rates, have increased significantly to take advantage of the NC500.
Photo: Gruinard Bay, Highland