Trip report - north and west Scotland
14th June 2019
Dates: 5th to 13th June 2019
Destination: north and west Scotland
Purpose of trip:
The purpose of my trip was my regular annual visit to the region to see bird and mammal species that are not found on a regular basis in Essex or East Anglia.
Primary target areas:
The primary target areas for wildlife watching and/or landscape photography were:
Perthshire: Glen Quaich, Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Speyside: Insh Marshes RSPB reserve, Loch Insh, Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve, Boat of Garten area, Nethy Bridge area, Dulnain Bridge, Grantown-on-Spey (Anagach Woods)
Inverness area (east): Lochindorb
Moray Firth (south): Spey Bay, Loch Spynie RSPB reserve, Burghead, Findhorn Bay, Nairn
Wester Ross: Glen Docherty, Torridon area, Loch Maree area, Gairloch area, Aultbea area, Gruinard Bay area, Dundonnell area
Sutherland: Assynt coastal route (Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg including Point of Stoer), Scourie Bay, Tarbet, Handa SWT reserve, Durness area, Altnahara area
Inverness area (south): Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve, Findhorn valley
Ardnamurchan peninsula: various sites
Mull: various sites
Getting there and getting around:
I travelled up to Glasgow by Virgin Trains on 5th June 2019 and returned on 13th June 2019. I obtained advance first class tickets for £46.20 for the outward journey and £56.10 for the return journey. First class tickets provide a much more comfortable and relaxing experience and include a single seat with a lot more space plus free wi-fi and free meals, coffee/tea, soft drinks, beer and wine and access to the first class lounges at London Euston and Glasgow Central stations. Unlike my trip in June 2018, there were no delays to either the outward or return train journeys.
In Glasgow, I hired a car from mid-afternoon on 5th June 2019 to mid-afternoon on 13th June 2019 from Thrifty for £114.89, reduced by cashback to £106.27.
I used the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry service to get to and return from Mull: Kilchoan to Tobermory (£23.50 car and passenger return fare).
During my trip, I had overnight stays at the following:
5th June 2019: Jessie Mac’s in Birnam near Dunkeld booked directly via their website (£35 per night).
This accommodation situated in a quiet street is a former Victorian manse or home for the minister of the adjacent church but it has been completely refurbished and modernised whilst retaining many of the characterful and original features. It is designated as a hostel and, although shared accommodation is provided, private rooms are also available. A lounge, kitchen, dining room and other communal facilities are also provided. I stayed in a double room with an en-suite shower and WC. A small TV was provided plus strong wi-fi. Jessie Mac’s has very strong “green” credentials in terms of energy conservation, recycling, Fair Trade purchasing, community involvement, support for local conservation charities, etc. and it has an environmental policy and action plan published on its website. In recognition of this, the accommodation has attained the “Gold” standard in the Green Tourism Business Scheme.
Jessie Mac’s is highly recommended and provided excellent value for money and a convenient stopover in readiness for birding at Perthshire sites from early the next morning. This was my first stay at this accommodation but I will definitely book again for future visits to this area. I did not have an evening meal in Dunkeld after my evening visit to Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve (for the Beaver talk and watch) since everywhere seemed to have closed early. Therefore, snacks were obtained from the local Co-op food store which fortunately was still open.
6th June 2019: High Range in Aviemore booked directly via their website (£63 per night).
This accommodation is very similar to a Premier Inn and is situated at the southern edge of Aviemore just off the roundabout where the road leads off to Glen More and the Cairngorm mountains. I stayed in a clean, comfortable and modern twin room with an en-suite shower and WC. Beyond the building site (fortunately quiet) on the other side of the road, there were views towards the Cairngorm mountains. This was my first stay at High Range and I am pleased to have found new accommodation in the Aviemore/Boat of Garten/Nethy Bridge area following the closure of accommodation booked in previous years and unsatisfactory experiences in the last 2 years. I had my evening meal at the immediately adjacent La Taverna, an excellent Italian restaurant.
7th June 2019: Premier Inn Elgin booked directly via their website (£43 per night).
As is always the case with Premier Inn, good value (if booked well in advance), clean and comfortable accommodation is provided. After eventually finding it after negotiating numerous road closures and diversions in Elgin, I had my evening meal at Spice Tandoori, the top Trip Advisor rated Indian restaurant.
8th June 2019: Old Mill Highland Lodge in Talladale between Kinlochewe and Gairloch booked via hotels.com (£70 per night).
This accommodation was completed as a purpose-built Highland lodge in 1976 on the site of a former grain store and horse mill. It is situated close to Loch Maree in the tiny settlement of Talladale, one of the smallest communities in the UK, and the accommodation is surrounded by mature gardens with flowers, heather shrubs and trees. Paul and Pauline offered a friendly welcome and I stayed in a small twin room. However, the room was cold with no heating turned on, there was no en-suite bath or shower (although these were available immediately opposite the room) and there was no TV (although one was available in the large upstairs communal lounge). In addition, whilst the website mentions evening meals, I was advised after booking that no evening meals were being provided for the night of my stay. On the positive side, the windows had midge screens (I have seen these before in Europe but for some reason never in Scotland), the breakfast was very good and a Pine Marten sat on the kitchen windowsill whilst Pauline cooked the breakfasts. Overall, I did not feel that £70 per night represented particularly good value for money and I am not sure that I would stay at this accommodation again although there are very few alternatives in this area. I had my evening meal at The Gorse Bush in Kinlochewe, a small café/restaurant occupying the old village hall. Whilst offering a limited menu, the food was exceptionally good.
9th June 2019: Park House bed and breakfast in Lochinver booked via booking.com (£30 per night).
This was my fourth successive June stay at this small guest house although on this occasion Alison was not present. She had sent me a text during the day to say that she would be away in Inverness when I arrived and the following morning. However, the keys were available, as always, in the hall foyer on arrival and Alison also made arrangements for her grand-daughter Rhianna to provide the very good breakfast. I was allocated room 3 on this visit, as I was on my first visit, and this is definitely the best room since it overlooks the river and upper end of Loch Inver. Costing just £30 per night including breakfast (unchanged from 2017), Park House continues to provide budget accommodation in a good location for the Assynt coastal route between Lochinver and Kylesku and to the far north west Highlands. I again had an evening meal at the highly recommended Peet’s Restaurant in Lochinver. This restaurant is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
10th June 2019: Alba B&B in Inverness booked via booking.com (£50 per night).
This accommodation is situated on a main road but I stayed in a quiet and very clean and comfortable double room with an en-suite shower and double room at the back of the property. I received a warm and friendly welcome from John. I have never stayed in bed and breakfast accommodation which offers such a wide range of complimentary facilities and products. In addition to a TV and wi-fi, a very generous hospitality tray provided coffee (including a cafetière), tea (including green tea), hot chocolate, a bottle of Coke, a small bottle of red wine and biscuits. A fridge and microwave were provided in the breakfast/dining room for the use of guests. A very good breakfast is available from 7 a.m. enabling an early start to the day. Accommodation in Inverness, including Travelodge and Premier Inn, can be very expensive but Alba B&B provides excellent value for money accommodation and I will definitely book again when I need an overnight stay in Inverness. I had my evening meal at La Tortilla Asesina, a Spanish tapas restaurant in central Inverness. I have never had such good Spanish food outside of Spain!
11th and 12th June 2019: Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale booked via booking.com (£76 for 2 nights).
This was my second successive June visit to the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse which is located at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Costing the same as my stay in 2018, it again provided an ideal base for travelling around the peninsula and for visiting Mull via the Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry. I again received a friendly welcome from Fay.
Although designated as a “hostel” by the Scottish Tourist Board, the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse offers 8 self-contained and en-suite rooms. My double room, “Fox’s Den” (the same room as in 2018), was relatively small and basic but nonetheless spotlessly clean and very comfortable. In addition, there is a huge communal kitchen, a large area with tables and chairs to eat at and a large lounge area with windows looking out on to the bird feeders and Pine Marten feeding area. A Pine Marten duly visited on the first evening of my stay. I did not use the facilities available for self-catering but instead had my evening meals at the Salen Hotel, where I have eaten previously when staying on the Ardnamurchan peninsula.
Itinerary and route:
5th June 2019: Glasgow > Birnam > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Birnam
6th June 2019: Birnam > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Glen Quaich > Dunkeld > Dalwhinnie > Kingussie > Insh Marshes RSPB reserve > Boat of Garten > Dulnain Bridge > Nethy Bridge > Forest Lodge > Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve > Aviemore > Glen More > Aviemore
7th June 2019: Aviemore > Grantown-on-Spey (Anagach Woods) > Dulnain Bridge > Lochindorb > Spey Bay > Loch Spynie RSPB reserve > Elgin
8th June 2019: Elgin > Burghead > Findhorn Bay > Nairn > Inverness > Garve > Achnasheen > Glen Docherty > Talladale > Glen Torridon > Upper Loch Torridon > Talladale
9th June 2019: Talladale > Loch Maree > Shieldaig > Badachro > Port Henderson > Opinan > Red Point > Opinan > Port Henderson > Badachro > Shieldaig > Gairloch > Melvaig > Gairloch > Poolewe > Aultbea > Mellon Charles > Laide > Gruinard Bay > Dundonnell > Braemore Junction > Ullapool > Inchnadamph > Loch Assynt > Lochinver > Assynt coastal route (including Point of Stoer) > Kylesku > Lochinver
10th June 2019: Lochinver > Kylesku > Scourie Bay > Tarbet > Handa SWT reserve > Durness > Altnaharra > Inverness
11th June 2019: Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve > Findhorn valley > Fort Augustus > Spean Bridge > Gairlochy > Kinlocheil > Glenfinnan > Lochailort > Glenuig > Kinlochmoidart > Acharacle > Salen > Glenborrodale > Ben Hiant viewpoint > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
12th June 2019: Glenborrodale > Ardnamurchan Point > Kilchoan > Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry > Tobermory > Aros Park > Dervaig > Calgary > Gruline > Loch na Keal > Loch Scridain > Glen More > Loch Spelve > Loch Don > Craignure > Tobermory > Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
13th June 2019: Glenborrodale > Salen > Garbh Eilean wildlife hide > Strontian > Sallachan > Corran ferry > Glencoe > Rannoch Moor > Tyndrum > Crianlarich > Loch Lomond > Glasgow
Weather:
After the exceptionally warm/hot and predominantly sunny weather during my trip in June 2018, the weather during this trip was the more expected mix of cloud, brightness, sunny spells, light rain and heavy rain. Temperatures ranged from day maxima of 11°C to 19°C. The largest daily range was on 7th June 2019 when the early morning temperature was 2°C increasing to 19°C by mid-afternoon. The best weather I experienced was on 12th June 2019 when I visited Mull for the day: it was sunny all day with temperatures of up to 18°C.
Highlights:
During my trip, I was able to record 122 bird species and 13 mammal species.
Trip list - north and west Scotland
With regard to birds, I was able to add 9 species to my 2019 list bringing the year to date total to 214 species. This included a “lifer”, namely American Black Duck at Strontian. This bird has been present on or around Loch Sunart and the River Strontian since June 2011 although I had failed to record it on numerous previous visits to the area.
Frustratingly, I failed to record another “lifer” during this trip, namely Baikal Teal. A male had been present at Skinflats Lagoons near Grangemouth between Glasgow and Edinburgh prior to my trip but it was last reported there on 3rd June 2019, just 2 days prior to my arrival in Glasgow.
Unfortunately, I also failed to record 2 other rare species during this trip, both of which had been present at their respective locations for some time.
Blue-winged Teal: A male had been present at Mellon Charles near Aultbea from 18th March 2019 but it was last reported on 4th June 2019, just 5 days prior to my arrival in the area. I have a single UK record of this species at Grove Ferry in Kent in December 1999.
King Eider: A male had been present off Nairn harbour from 31st March 2019 but it was last reported on 7th June 2019, just a day before my arrival in the area. I have 2 UK records of this species at Titchwell in Norfolk in December 2004 and Burghead in Moray in December 2009.
Therefore I missed 3 rare duck species by a matter of days!
The mammal highlight was undoubtedly seeing my first Eurasian Beaver in the UK. I had previously tried unsuccessfully to see Eurasian Beaver at the trial re-introduction site at Knapdale in Argyll during my trip in November 2011. I was more successful seeing 8 individual Eurasian Beavers during my trip to Estonia in May 2016. All 8 were seen in the Matsalu National Park, a self-found individual seen from the Haeska birdwatching tower and a further 7 from an evening Beaver watching trip organised by Estonian Nature Tours on the Kasari river delta.
During this trip, I visited Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve, as I always do as part of my itinerary, but specifically this time to attend the SWT’s “People’s Postcode Lottery Beaver Watch”. This evening event is held on Wednesday evenings during the summer months. Following an excellent and interesting presentation by Amy on the ecology and conservation of the Eurasian Beaver, there was an opportunity to try and actually see one of these mammals. It didn’t take long scanning Loch of the Lowes for a Eurasian Beaver to emerge from the loch side vegetation close to the Osprey nest site before swimming right across the loch in front of the hide to finally settle and eat on the other side. Unfortunately the light was too poor for any photos.
More information on this amazing mammal can be found here ….
Scottish Wildlife Trust
Wildlife Trusts
Wildlife Trusts: Beaver re-introductions
Trees for Life
Scottish Beaver Trial
Other mammals seen during my trip included the following:
Pine Marten: 1 early evening in Glen More, 1 at Old Mill Highland Lodge in Talladale at breakfast time, 1 early morning at Leacnasaide between Shieldaig and Badachro, 1 late evening at Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale, 1 early morning just east of Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
Otter: 1 at Loch Spynie RSPB reserve, 1 at Killiechronan, Mull
Red Squirrel: at least 4 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve, 1 at Inshriach, 3 at Anagach Woods near Grantown-on-Spey, 1 at Loch Spynie RSPB reserve
Stoat: 1 at Tarbet
Hedgehog: a daylight sighting of an active individual in Aros Park near Tobermory, Mull
Fox: 1 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
I also managed to record a bat species (probably Pipistrelle) with up to 5 flying around Jessie Mac's in Birnam plus Red Deer, Roe Deer, Atlantic Grey Seal, Common Seal and Rabbit in varying numbers at several locations.
The following summarises the notable wildlife species seen on my trip:
Birnam: Swift, House Martin, bat sp.
Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve: Beaver, Red Squirrel, Red Fox, Osprey, Sparrowhawk, Great Crested Grebe, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Goosander, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Curlew (heard only), Cuckoo (heard only), Common Redstart, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, Swift, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit, Goldcrest (heard only), Siskin (heard only), Yellowhammer
Photo: Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Photo: Red Squirrel at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Dunkeld to Amulree: Grey Partridge, Swallow, House Martin, Oystercatcher, Curlew
Glen Quaich: Red Grouse (heard only), Grey Partridge, Red-legged Partridge, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Curlew, Lapwing, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe, Common Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Cuckoo (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Whinchat, Mistle Thrush, Meadow Pipit, Rabbit
Insh Marshes RSPB reserve: Curlew, Grey Heron, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Willow Warbler, Swallow, House Martin, Coal Tit, Roe Deer
Inshriach: Red Squirrel, Siskin
Loch Insh: Osprey, Goldeneye, Roe Deer
Boat of Garten: Grey Heron, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Swift, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest, Coal Tit
Dulnain Bridge: Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Common Sandpiper, Common Buzzard, Roe Deer
Photo: Common Sandpiper at Dulnain Bridge
Nethy Bridge: Great Spotted Woodpecker, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest (heard only)
Forest Lodge: Crested Tit, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest (heard only), Coal Tit (heard only)
Aviemore: Osprey
Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve: Red-throated Diver, Goldeneye, Common Sandpiper, Roe Deer
Photo: Loch Garten
Glen More: Pine Marten
Feshiebridge: Roe Deer
Grantown-on-Spey: Roe Deer
Photo: Roe Deer at Grantown-on-Spey
Anagach Woods: Crested Tit, Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Siskin, Grey Heron, Cuckoo (heard only), Common Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher, Tree Pipit (heard only), Willow Warbler, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Mistle Thrush (heard only), Curlew (heard only), Grey Heron, Red Squirrel, Roe Deer, Rabbit
Lochindorb: Red Grouse, Kestrel, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Greylag Goose, Mallard, Cuckoo, Spotted Flycatcher, Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Skylark, Meadow Pipit
Photo: Red Grouse at Lochindorb
Spey Bay: Goosander, Shelduck, Mallard, Teal, Mute Swan, Whimbrel, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Oystercatcher, Arctic Tern, Shag, Grey Heron, Sedge Warbler, Swallow, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Linnet, Stonechat, Yellowhammer (heard only), Reed Bunting (heard only)
Loch Spynie RSPB reserve: Common Tern, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Little Grebe, Coot, Moorhen, Mute Swan, Gadwall, Tufted Duck, Chiffchaff (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Sand Martin, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Reed Bunting, Otter, Red Squirrel
Burghead: Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Shag, Hooded Crow, Swallow, House Martin, Swift
Findhorn Bay: Osprey, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Shelduck, Mallard, Mute Swan, Common Whitethroat, Willow Warbler (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Yellowhammer, Linnet, Greenfinch
Forres to Nairn: Yellowhammer, Roe Deer
Nairn: Osprey, Common Scoter, Eider, Cormorant, Shag, Oystercatcher, Swallow, Sand Martin, Wheatear, Hooded Crow, seal sp.
Tore to Dingwall: Red Kite
Achnasheen: Common Buzzard
Glen Docherty: Cuckoo (heard only), Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Raven (heard only), Red Deer
Talladale: Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Grey Wagtail, Pine Marten, Red Deer
Beinn Eighe visitor centre: Siskin, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only)
Upper Loch Torridon: Black-throated Diver, Greenshank, Oystercatcher, Common Sandpiper, Grey Heron, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Greylag Goose, Hooded Crow, Cuckoo (heard only), Meadow Pipit
Talladale to Red Point road junction: Cuckoo, Common Buzzard, Mistle Thrush
Road to Red Point via Badachro, Port Henderson and Opinan: Black-throated Diver, Great Skua, Black Guillemot, Shag, Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Rock Dove, Common Buzzard, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Stonechat, Lesser Redpoll, Bullfinch, Greenfinch, Pine Marten
Gairloch to Melvaig: Black-throated Diver, Great Skua, Shag, Red-breasted Merganser, Oystercatcher, Wheatear, Stonechat, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Raven, Hooded Crow, Atlantic Grey Seal
Mellon Charles: Common Tern, Little Grebe, Mallard, Grey Heron, Rock Dove, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll, Reed Bunting
Laide to Dundonnell: Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Shag, Wheatear
Dundonnell to Ullapool: Common Buzzard, Grey Wagtail, Ring Ousel (heard only)
Ullapool to Elphin: Common Buzzard
Elphin: Raven
Inchnadamph: Red Deer
Lochinver: Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Greylag Goose, Cuckoo (heard only), House Martin, Red Deer
Lochinver to Inverkirkaig: Black-throated Diver, Willow Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Raven, Hooded Crow
Lochinver to Stoer: Little Grebe, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Cuckoo, Wheatear, Sand Martin, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow
Photo: Suilven from Assynt coastal route near Achmelvich
Point of Stoer: Great Skua, Fulmar, Common Guillemot, Kittiwake, Gannet, Shag, Wheatear, Skylark, Meadow Pipit
Loch Assynt: Common Sandpiper
Photo: Loch Assynt and Quinag from Inchnadamph
Scourie: Blackcap (heard only)
Tarbet: Red-throated Diver, Common Guillemot, Razorbill, Greylag Goose, Willow Warbler (heard only), Stoat
Handa SWT reserve: Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Arctic Skua, Puffin, Common Guillemot, Razorbill, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Shag, Eider, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe (heard only), Greylag Goose, Wheatear, Willow Warbler, Skylark, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Raven
Photo: Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Arctic Skua at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Great Skua at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Puffin at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Fulmars at Handa SWT reserve
Fulmar at Handa SWT reserve
Durness: Rock Dove
Durness to Altnaharra: Wheatear, Stonechat, Raven, Hooded Crow, Red Deer
Altnaharra: Wigeon, Mallard, Common Buzzard, Red Deer
Lairg: Common Buzzard
Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve: Slavonian Grebe, Little Grebe, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Curlew (heard only), Common Snipe (heard only), Oystercatcher (heard only), Grey Heron, Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, Sand Martin, House Martin, Red Kite, Hooded Crow
Findhorn valley: Common Sandpiper, Curlew (heard only), Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Mallard, Common Redstart, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Grey Wagtail, Mistle Thrush, Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Farr road moors: Red Grouse, Meadow Pipit
Croachy area: Red Kite, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Kilchoan/Glenborrodale/Salen/Strontian: Golden Eagle, Common Buzzard, Red-throated Diver, Grey Heron, Common Snipe (heard only), Oystercatcher, Wood Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Chiffchaff (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Stonechat, Swallow, Sand Martin, Siskin, Goldcrest (heard only), Coal Tit, Yellowhammer, Linnet, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Skylark (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Mistle Thrush, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Raven, Hooded Crow, Jay, Pine Marten, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Ardnamurchan Point: Manx Shearwater, Gannet, Fulmar, Kittiwake, auk sp., Rock Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Garbh Eilean wildlife hide: Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Great Spotted Woodpecker (heard only), Siskin, Rock Pipit, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Strontian: American Black Duck, Goosander, Greylag Goose, Grey Wagtail, Blackcap (heard only), Hooded Crow
Ardnamurchan – Sallachan: Oystercatcher, Common/Arctic Tern, Common Seal
Mull: White-tailed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Gannet, Shag, Grey Heron, Common Sandpiper, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Red-breasted Merganser, Shelduck, Mallard, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Arctic Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Wood Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler, Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Goldcrest (heard only), Siskin, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Otter, Atlantic Grey Seal, Common Seal, Hedgehog
Ardgour: Black Guillemot
More on the NC500 ….
In my report on my trip in June 2018, I wrote at length about the North Coast 500 and the increasing traffic volumes, congestion and other problems in north Scotland. I speculated as to whether or not I would continue to visit the area in June.
Obviously I did visit again a year later and, whilst traffic volumes are still considerably higher than several years ago prior to the inception of the NC500, they did appear to be less than in 2018 and therefore the driving experience was generally less frustrating.
The one occasion when the impact of the NC500 was again made clear to me was when I joined the rear of a convoy of around 20 cars and campervans heading up the A838 from Rhiconich to Durness. This journey of around 14 miles on a single track road must have taken close to an hour due to the need for one block of vehicles trying to pass another block of vehicles at regular intervals in the passing places designed for just 2 or 3 vehicles.
It was frankly a joy to finally reach Durness and then travel further east on the A838 before eventually joining the unclassified road south to Alltnaharra and past Loch Hope and Ben Hope and onwards to Lairg. This has got to be one of the remotest and loneliest roads in the UK and now in stark contrast to the NC500.
Photo: returning south to Glasgow via Glencoe
Destination: north and west Scotland
Purpose of trip:
The purpose of my trip was my regular annual visit to the region to see bird and mammal species that are not found on a regular basis in Essex or East Anglia.
Primary target areas:
The primary target areas for wildlife watching and/or landscape photography were:
Perthshire: Glen Quaich, Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Speyside: Insh Marshes RSPB reserve, Loch Insh, Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve, Boat of Garten area, Nethy Bridge area, Dulnain Bridge, Grantown-on-Spey (Anagach Woods)
Inverness area (east): Lochindorb
Moray Firth (south): Spey Bay, Loch Spynie RSPB reserve, Burghead, Findhorn Bay, Nairn
Wester Ross: Glen Docherty, Torridon area, Loch Maree area, Gairloch area, Aultbea area, Gruinard Bay area, Dundonnell area
Sutherland: Assynt coastal route (Lochinver to Kylesku via Drumbeg including Point of Stoer), Scourie Bay, Tarbet, Handa SWT reserve, Durness area, Altnahara area
Inverness area (south): Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve, Findhorn valley
Ardnamurchan peninsula: various sites
Mull: various sites
Getting there and getting around:
I travelled up to Glasgow by Virgin Trains on 5th June 2019 and returned on 13th June 2019. I obtained advance first class tickets for £46.20 for the outward journey and £56.10 for the return journey. First class tickets provide a much more comfortable and relaxing experience and include a single seat with a lot more space plus free wi-fi and free meals, coffee/tea, soft drinks, beer and wine and access to the first class lounges at London Euston and Glasgow Central stations. Unlike my trip in June 2018, there were no delays to either the outward or return train journeys.
In Glasgow, I hired a car from mid-afternoon on 5th June 2019 to mid-afternoon on 13th June 2019 from Thrifty for £114.89, reduced by cashback to £106.27.
I used the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry service to get to and return from Mull: Kilchoan to Tobermory (£23.50 car and passenger return fare).
During my trip, I had overnight stays at the following:
5th June 2019: Jessie Mac’s in Birnam near Dunkeld booked directly via their website (£35 per night).
This accommodation situated in a quiet street is a former Victorian manse or home for the minister of the adjacent church but it has been completely refurbished and modernised whilst retaining many of the characterful and original features. It is designated as a hostel and, although shared accommodation is provided, private rooms are also available. A lounge, kitchen, dining room and other communal facilities are also provided. I stayed in a double room with an en-suite shower and WC. A small TV was provided plus strong wi-fi. Jessie Mac’s has very strong “green” credentials in terms of energy conservation, recycling, Fair Trade purchasing, community involvement, support for local conservation charities, etc. and it has an environmental policy and action plan published on its website. In recognition of this, the accommodation has attained the “Gold” standard in the Green Tourism Business Scheme.
Jessie Mac’s is highly recommended and provided excellent value for money and a convenient stopover in readiness for birding at Perthshire sites from early the next morning. This was my first stay at this accommodation but I will definitely book again for future visits to this area. I did not have an evening meal in Dunkeld after my evening visit to Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve (for the Beaver talk and watch) since everywhere seemed to have closed early. Therefore, snacks were obtained from the local Co-op food store which fortunately was still open.
6th June 2019: High Range in Aviemore booked directly via their website (£63 per night).
This accommodation is very similar to a Premier Inn and is situated at the southern edge of Aviemore just off the roundabout where the road leads off to Glen More and the Cairngorm mountains. I stayed in a clean, comfortable and modern twin room with an en-suite shower and WC. Beyond the building site (fortunately quiet) on the other side of the road, there were views towards the Cairngorm mountains. This was my first stay at High Range and I am pleased to have found new accommodation in the Aviemore/Boat of Garten/Nethy Bridge area following the closure of accommodation booked in previous years and unsatisfactory experiences in the last 2 years. I had my evening meal at the immediately adjacent La Taverna, an excellent Italian restaurant.
7th June 2019: Premier Inn Elgin booked directly via their website (£43 per night).
As is always the case with Premier Inn, good value (if booked well in advance), clean and comfortable accommodation is provided. After eventually finding it after negotiating numerous road closures and diversions in Elgin, I had my evening meal at Spice Tandoori, the top Trip Advisor rated Indian restaurant.
8th June 2019: Old Mill Highland Lodge in Talladale between Kinlochewe and Gairloch booked via hotels.com (£70 per night).
This accommodation was completed as a purpose-built Highland lodge in 1976 on the site of a former grain store and horse mill. It is situated close to Loch Maree in the tiny settlement of Talladale, one of the smallest communities in the UK, and the accommodation is surrounded by mature gardens with flowers, heather shrubs and trees. Paul and Pauline offered a friendly welcome and I stayed in a small twin room. However, the room was cold with no heating turned on, there was no en-suite bath or shower (although these were available immediately opposite the room) and there was no TV (although one was available in the large upstairs communal lounge). In addition, whilst the website mentions evening meals, I was advised after booking that no evening meals were being provided for the night of my stay. On the positive side, the windows had midge screens (I have seen these before in Europe but for some reason never in Scotland), the breakfast was very good and a Pine Marten sat on the kitchen windowsill whilst Pauline cooked the breakfasts. Overall, I did not feel that £70 per night represented particularly good value for money and I am not sure that I would stay at this accommodation again although there are very few alternatives in this area. I had my evening meal at The Gorse Bush in Kinlochewe, a small café/restaurant occupying the old village hall. Whilst offering a limited menu, the food was exceptionally good.
9th June 2019: Park House bed and breakfast in Lochinver booked via booking.com (£30 per night).
This was my fourth successive June stay at this small guest house although on this occasion Alison was not present. She had sent me a text during the day to say that she would be away in Inverness when I arrived and the following morning. However, the keys were available, as always, in the hall foyer on arrival and Alison also made arrangements for her grand-daughter Rhianna to provide the very good breakfast. I was allocated room 3 on this visit, as I was on my first visit, and this is definitely the best room since it overlooks the river and upper end of Loch Inver. Costing just £30 per night including breakfast (unchanged from 2017), Park House continues to provide budget accommodation in a good location for the Assynt coastal route between Lochinver and Kylesku and to the far north west Highlands. I again had an evening meal at the highly recommended Peet’s Restaurant in Lochinver. This restaurant is very popular and booking in advance is essential.
10th June 2019: Alba B&B in Inverness booked via booking.com (£50 per night).
This accommodation is situated on a main road but I stayed in a quiet and very clean and comfortable double room with an en-suite shower and double room at the back of the property. I received a warm and friendly welcome from John. I have never stayed in bed and breakfast accommodation which offers such a wide range of complimentary facilities and products. In addition to a TV and wi-fi, a very generous hospitality tray provided coffee (including a cafetière), tea (including green tea), hot chocolate, a bottle of Coke, a small bottle of red wine and biscuits. A fridge and microwave were provided in the breakfast/dining room for the use of guests. A very good breakfast is available from 7 a.m. enabling an early start to the day. Accommodation in Inverness, including Travelodge and Premier Inn, can be very expensive but Alba B&B provides excellent value for money accommodation and I will definitely book again when I need an overnight stay in Inverness. I had my evening meal at La Tortilla Asesina, a Spanish tapas restaurant in central Inverness. I have never had such good Spanish food outside of Spain!
11th and 12th June 2019: Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale booked via booking.com (£76 for 2 nights).
This was my second successive June visit to the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse which is located at the western end of the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Costing the same as my stay in 2018, it again provided an ideal base for travelling around the peninsula and for visiting Mull via the Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry. I again received a friendly welcome from Fay.
Although designated as a “hostel” by the Scottish Tourist Board, the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse offers 8 self-contained and en-suite rooms. My double room, “Fox’s Den” (the same room as in 2018), was relatively small and basic but nonetheless spotlessly clean and very comfortable. In addition, there is a huge communal kitchen, a large area with tables and chairs to eat at and a large lounge area with windows looking out on to the bird feeders and Pine Marten feeding area. A Pine Marten duly visited on the first evening of my stay. I did not use the facilities available for self-catering but instead had my evening meals at the Salen Hotel, where I have eaten previously when staying on the Ardnamurchan peninsula.
Itinerary and route:
5th June 2019: Glasgow > Birnam > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Birnam
6th June 2019: Birnam > Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve > Glen Quaich > Dunkeld > Dalwhinnie > Kingussie > Insh Marshes RSPB reserve > Boat of Garten > Dulnain Bridge > Nethy Bridge > Forest Lodge > Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve > Aviemore > Glen More > Aviemore
7th June 2019: Aviemore > Grantown-on-Spey (Anagach Woods) > Dulnain Bridge > Lochindorb > Spey Bay > Loch Spynie RSPB reserve > Elgin
8th June 2019: Elgin > Burghead > Findhorn Bay > Nairn > Inverness > Garve > Achnasheen > Glen Docherty > Talladale > Glen Torridon > Upper Loch Torridon > Talladale
9th June 2019: Talladale > Loch Maree > Shieldaig > Badachro > Port Henderson > Opinan > Red Point > Opinan > Port Henderson > Badachro > Shieldaig > Gairloch > Melvaig > Gairloch > Poolewe > Aultbea > Mellon Charles > Laide > Gruinard Bay > Dundonnell > Braemore Junction > Ullapool > Inchnadamph > Loch Assynt > Lochinver > Assynt coastal route (including Point of Stoer) > Kylesku > Lochinver
10th June 2019: Lochinver > Kylesku > Scourie Bay > Tarbet > Handa SWT reserve > Durness > Altnaharra > Inverness
11th June 2019: Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve > Findhorn valley > Fort Augustus > Spean Bridge > Gairlochy > Kinlocheil > Glenfinnan > Lochailort > Glenuig > Kinlochmoidart > Acharacle > Salen > Glenborrodale > Ben Hiant viewpoint > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
12th June 2019: Glenborrodale > Ardnamurchan Point > Kilchoan > Kilchoan to Tobermory ferry > Tobermory > Aros Park > Dervaig > Calgary > Gruline > Loch na Keal > Loch Scridain > Glen More > Loch Spelve > Loch Don > Craignure > Tobermory > Tobermory to Kilchoan ferry > Kilchoan > Glenborrodale > Salen > Glenborrodale
13th June 2019: Glenborrodale > Salen > Garbh Eilean wildlife hide > Strontian > Sallachan > Corran ferry > Glencoe > Rannoch Moor > Tyndrum > Crianlarich > Loch Lomond > Glasgow
Weather:
After the exceptionally warm/hot and predominantly sunny weather during my trip in June 2018, the weather during this trip was the more expected mix of cloud, brightness, sunny spells, light rain and heavy rain. Temperatures ranged from day maxima of 11°C to 19°C. The largest daily range was on 7th June 2019 when the early morning temperature was 2°C increasing to 19°C by mid-afternoon. The best weather I experienced was on 12th June 2019 when I visited Mull for the day: it was sunny all day with temperatures of up to 18°C.
Highlights:
During my trip, I was able to record 122 bird species and 13 mammal species.
Trip list - north and west Scotland
With regard to birds, I was able to add 9 species to my 2019 list bringing the year to date total to 214 species. This included a “lifer”, namely American Black Duck at Strontian. This bird has been present on or around Loch Sunart and the River Strontian since June 2011 although I had failed to record it on numerous previous visits to the area.
Frustratingly, I failed to record another “lifer” during this trip, namely Baikal Teal. A male had been present at Skinflats Lagoons near Grangemouth between Glasgow and Edinburgh prior to my trip but it was last reported there on 3rd June 2019, just 2 days prior to my arrival in Glasgow.
Unfortunately, I also failed to record 2 other rare species during this trip, both of which had been present at their respective locations for some time.
Blue-winged Teal: A male had been present at Mellon Charles near Aultbea from 18th March 2019 but it was last reported on 4th June 2019, just 5 days prior to my arrival in the area. I have a single UK record of this species at Grove Ferry in Kent in December 1999.
King Eider: A male had been present off Nairn harbour from 31st March 2019 but it was last reported on 7th June 2019, just a day before my arrival in the area. I have 2 UK records of this species at Titchwell in Norfolk in December 2004 and Burghead in Moray in December 2009.
Therefore I missed 3 rare duck species by a matter of days!
The mammal highlight was undoubtedly seeing my first Eurasian Beaver in the UK. I had previously tried unsuccessfully to see Eurasian Beaver at the trial re-introduction site at Knapdale in Argyll during my trip in November 2011. I was more successful seeing 8 individual Eurasian Beavers during my trip to Estonia in May 2016. All 8 were seen in the Matsalu National Park, a self-found individual seen from the Haeska birdwatching tower and a further 7 from an evening Beaver watching trip organised by Estonian Nature Tours on the Kasari river delta.
During this trip, I visited Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve, as I always do as part of my itinerary, but specifically this time to attend the SWT’s “People’s Postcode Lottery Beaver Watch”. This evening event is held on Wednesday evenings during the summer months. Following an excellent and interesting presentation by Amy on the ecology and conservation of the Eurasian Beaver, there was an opportunity to try and actually see one of these mammals. It didn’t take long scanning Loch of the Lowes for a Eurasian Beaver to emerge from the loch side vegetation close to the Osprey nest site before swimming right across the loch in front of the hide to finally settle and eat on the other side. Unfortunately the light was too poor for any photos.
More information on this amazing mammal can be found here ….
Scottish Wildlife Trust
Wildlife Trusts
Wildlife Trusts: Beaver re-introductions
Trees for Life
Scottish Beaver Trial
Other mammals seen during my trip included the following:
Pine Marten: 1 early evening in Glen More, 1 at Old Mill Highland Lodge in Talladale at breakfast time, 1 early morning at Leacnasaide between Shieldaig and Badachro, 1 late evening at Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse in Glenborrodale, 1 early morning just east of Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse
Otter: 1 at Loch Spynie RSPB reserve, 1 at Killiechronan, Mull
Red Squirrel: at least 4 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve, 1 at Inshriach, 3 at Anagach Woods near Grantown-on-Spey, 1 at Loch Spynie RSPB reserve
Stoat: 1 at Tarbet
Hedgehog: a daylight sighting of an active individual in Aros Park near Tobermory, Mull
Fox: 1 at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
I also managed to record a bat species (probably Pipistrelle) with up to 5 flying around Jessie Mac's in Birnam plus Red Deer, Roe Deer, Atlantic Grey Seal, Common Seal and Rabbit in varying numbers at several locations.
The following summarises the notable wildlife species seen on my trip:
Birnam: Swift, House Martin, bat sp.
Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve: Beaver, Red Squirrel, Red Fox, Osprey, Sparrowhawk, Great Crested Grebe, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Goosander, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Curlew (heard only), Cuckoo (heard only), Common Redstart, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, Swift, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit, Goldcrest (heard only), Siskin (heard only), Yellowhammer
Photo: Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Photo: Red Squirrel at Loch of the Lowes SWT reserve
Dunkeld to Amulree: Grey Partridge, Swallow, House Martin, Oystercatcher, Curlew
Glen Quaich: Red Grouse (heard only), Grey Partridge, Red-legged Partridge, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Curlew, Lapwing, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe, Common Sandpiper, Common Redshank, Cuckoo (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Whinchat, Mistle Thrush, Meadow Pipit, Rabbit
Insh Marshes RSPB reserve: Curlew, Grey Heron, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Willow Warbler, Swallow, House Martin, Coal Tit, Roe Deer
Inshriach: Red Squirrel, Siskin
Loch Insh: Osprey, Goldeneye, Roe Deer
Boat of Garten: Grey Heron, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Swift, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest, Coal Tit
Dulnain Bridge: Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Common Sandpiper, Common Buzzard, Roe Deer
Photo: Common Sandpiper at Dulnain Bridge
Nethy Bridge: Great Spotted Woodpecker, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest (heard only)
Forest Lodge: Crested Tit, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler (heard only), Goldcrest (heard only), Coal Tit (heard only)
Aviemore: Osprey
Loch Garten/Loch Mallachie RSPB reserve: Red-throated Diver, Goldeneye, Common Sandpiper, Roe Deer
Photo: Loch Garten
Glen More: Pine Marten
Feshiebridge: Roe Deer
Grantown-on-Spey: Roe Deer
Photo: Roe Deer at Grantown-on-Spey
Anagach Woods: Crested Tit, Coal Tit, Goldcrest, Siskin, Grey Heron, Cuckoo (heard only), Common Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher, Tree Pipit (heard only), Willow Warbler, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Mistle Thrush (heard only), Curlew (heard only), Grey Heron, Red Squirrel, Roe Deer, Rabbit
Lochindorb: Red Grouse, Kestrel, Common Sandpiper, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Greylag Goose, Mallard, Cuckoo, Spotted Flycatcher, Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Skylark, Meadow Pipit
Photo: Red Grouse at Lochindorb
Spey Bay: Goosander, Shelduck, Mallard, Teal, Mute Swan, Whimbrel, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Oystercatcher, Arctic Tern, Shag, Grey Heron, Sedge Warbler, Swallow, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Linnet, Stonechat, Yellowhammer (heard only), Reed Bunting (heard only)
Loch Spynie RSPB reserve: Common Tern, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Little Grebe, Coot, Moorhen, Mute Swan, Gadwall, Tufted Duck, Chiffchaff (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Sand Martin, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Reed Bunting, Otter, Red Squirrel
Burghead: Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Shag, Hooded Crow, Swallow, House Martin, Swift
Findhorn Bay: Osprey, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Shelduck, Mallard, Mute Swan, Common Whitethroat, Willow Warbler (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Yellowhammer, Linnet, Greenfinch
Forres to Nairn: Yellowhammer, Roe Deer
Nairn: Osprey, Common Scoter, Eider, Cormorant, Shag, Oystercatcher, Swallow, Sand Martin, Wheatear, Hooded Crow, seal sp.
Tore to Dingwall: Red Kite
Achnasheen: Common Buzzard
Glen Docherty: Cuckoo (heard only), Stonechat, Meadow Pipit, Raven (heard only), Red Deer
Talladale: Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Grey Wagtail, Pine Marten, Red Deer
Beinn Eighe visitor centre: Siskin, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Blackcap (heard only)
Upper Loch Torridon: Black-throated Diver, Greenshank, Oystercatcher, Common Sandpiper, Grey Heron, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Greylag Goose, Hooded Crow, Cuckoo (heard only), Meadow Pipit
Talladale to Red Point road junction: Cuckoo, Common Buzzard, Mistle Thrush
Road to Red Point via Badachro, Port Henderson and Opinan: Black-throated Diver, Great Skua, Black Guillemot, Shag, Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Rock Dove, Common Buzzard, Wheatear, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Stonechat, Lesser Redpoll, Bullfinch, Greenfinch, Pine Marten
Gairloch to Melvaig: Black-throated Diver, Great Skua, Shag, Red-breasted Merganser, Oystercatcher, Wheatear, Stonechat, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Raven, Hooded Crow, Atlantic Grey Seal
Mellon Charles: Common Tern, Little Grebe, Mallard, Grey Heron, Rock Dove, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Willow Warbler (heard only), Sedge Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll, Reed Bunting
Laide to Dundonnell: Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Shag, Wheatear
Dundonnell to Ullapool: Common Buzzard, Grey Wagtail, Ring Ousel (heard only)
Ullapool to Elphin: Common Buzzard
Elphin: Raven
Inchnadamph: Red Deer
Lochinver: Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Greylag Goose, Cuckoo (heard only), House Martin, Red Deer
Lochinver to Inverkirkaig: Black-throated Diver, Willow Warbler (heard only), Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Raven, Hooded Crow
Lochinver to Stoer: Little Grebe, Mallard, Oystercatcher, Cuckoo, Wheatear, Sand Martin, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow
Photo: Suilven from Assynt coastal route near Achmelvich
Point of Stoer: Great Skua, Fulmar, Common Guillemot, Kittiwake, Gannet, Shag, Wheatear, Skylark, Meadow Pipit
Loch Assynt: Common Sandpiper
Photo: Loch Assynt and Quinag from Inchnadamph
Scourie: Blackcap (heard only)
Tarbet: Red-throated Diver, Common Guillemot, Razorbill, Greylag Goose, Willow Warbler (heard only), Stoat
Handa SWT reserve: Red-throated Diver, Great Skua, Arctic Skua, Puffin, Common Guillemot, Razorbill, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Shag, Eider, Oystercatcher, Common Snipe (heard only), Greylag Goose, Wheatear, Willow Warbler, Skylark, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Raven
Photo: Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Arctic Skua at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Great Skua at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Puffin at Handa SWT reserve
Photo: Fulmars at Handa SWT reserve
Fulmar at Handa SWT reserve
Durness: Rock Dove
Durness to Altnaharra: Wheatear, Stonechat, Raven, Hooded Crow, Red Deer
Altnaharra: Wigeon, Mallard, Common Buzzard, Red Deer
Lairg: Common Buzzard
Loch Ruthven RSPB reserve: Slavonian Grebe, Little Grebe, Tufted Duck, Mallard, Curlew (heard only), Common Snipe (heard only), Oystercatcher (heard only), Grey Heron, Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, Sand Martin, House Martin, Red Kite, Hooded Crow
Findhorn valley: Common Sandpiper, Curlew (heard only), Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Mallard, Common Redstart, Willow Warbler (heard only), Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Grey Wagtail, Mistle Thrush, Meadow Pipit, Red Deer
Farr road moors: Red Grouse, Meadow Pipit
Croachy area: Red Kite, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Kilchoan/Glenborrodale/Salen/Strontian: Golden Eagle, Common Buzzard, Red-throated Diver, Grey Heron, Common Snipe (heard only), Oystercatcher, Wood Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Chiffchaff (heard only), Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Stonechat, Swallow, Sand Martin, Siskin, Goldcrest (heard only), Coal Tit, Yellowhammer, Linnet, Lesser Redpoll (heard only), Skylark (heard only), Meadow Pipit, Mistle Thrush, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Raven, Hooded Crow, Jay, Pine Marten, Red Deer
Ardnamurchan – Ardnamurchan Point: Manx Shearwater, Gannet, Fulmar, Kittiwake, auk sp., Rock Pipit
Ardnamurchan – Garbh Eilean wildlife hide: Red-breasted Merganser, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Common Tern, Cuckoo (heard only), Willow Warbler (heard only), Great Spotted Woodpecker (heard only), Siskin, Rock Pipit, Common Seal
Ardnamurchan – Strontian: American Black Duck, Goosander, Greylag Goose, Grey Wagtail, Blackcap (heard only), Hooded Crow
Ardnamurchan – Sallachan: Oystercatcher, Common/Arctic Tern, Common Seal
Mull: White-tailed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Hooded Crow, Gannet, Shag, Grey Heron, Common Sandpiper, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Lapwing, Common Redshank, Red-breasted Merganser, Shelduck, Mallard, Greylag Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Arctic Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Sand Martin, Wood Warbler (heard only), Willow Warbler, Blackcap (heard only), Wheatear, Goldcrest (heard only), Siskin, Rock Pipit, Meadow Pipit, Otter, Atlantic Grey Seal, Common Seal, Hedgehog
Ardgour: Black Guillemot
More on the NC500 ….
In my report on my trip in June 2018, I wrote at length about the North Coast 500 and the increasing traffic volumes, congestion and other problems in north Scotland. I speculated as to whether or not I would continue to visit the area in June.
Obviously I did visit again a year later and, whilst traffic volumes are still considerably higher than several years ago prior to the inception of the NC500, they did appear to be less than in 2018 and therefore the driving experience was generally less frustrating.
The one occasion when the impact of the NC500 was again made clear to me was when I joined the rear of a convoy of around 20 cars and campervans heading up the A838 from Rhiconich to Durness. This journey of around 14 miles on a single track road must have taken close to an hour due to the need for one block of vehicles trying to pass another block of vehicles at regular intervals in the passing places designed for just 2 or 3 vehicles.
It was frankly a joy to finally reach Durness and then travel further east on the A838 before eventually joining the unclassified road south to Alltnaharra and past Loch Hope and Ben Hope and onwards to Lairg. This has got to be one of the remotest and loneliest roads in the UK and now in stark contrast to the NC500.
Photo: returning south to Glasgow via Glencoe